And God knows they were crazy, he thought. Rash, excitable, easily disturbed.
Bud Browne asked him to be the star of the movie he was shooting that winter, of course Mike agreed, and later when he was screened in civic auditoriums in California, Mike Doyle became an instant legend . Still, he knew he hadn’t got it all together yet. He was doing well thanks to his abilities, but his equipment was not suitable.
By Steve SorensenMarch 15, 1984 Read the full article
Chris O’Rourke. He gestures for me to touch his head, which I do, gently – three fingers pressing the slightly yellowed skin above the ear. The skin gives way, as if there was only pulp behind it.
Windansea is paradise – Bali Hai with a 31 Flavors next to an art cinema and a natural food grocery store just a block away. And that includes Chris O’Rourke, who was the Western Surfing Association’s top competitor as a 16-year-old, placing at least in every 4A, or top-rated, contest of 1976.
By Joe Applegate, August 3, 1978 Read the full article
Kahanamoku surfed the OB Pier, and when he did, he asked a teenage lifeguard named Charlie Wright if he could store his board in Wright’s beach shack. Wright asked if he could try the plank. “So Charlie surfed the board and also got the dimensions and copied it later.”
Ralph Noisat, George Freeth, Carl Ekstrom, Gordon/Smith
Duke Kahanamoku (considered the father of modern surfing) traveled up the coast to visit his buddy. This was around 1916 or 1917, according to local amateur surfing historian John Elwell. Elwell says Kahanamoku surfed OB Pier, and when he did, he asked a teenage lifeguard named Charlie Wright if he could store his board in Wright’s beach shack.
By Jeannette DeWyze, December 14, 2006 Read the full article
Tom Morey: “You keep working or you deteriorate.”
At first, Morey and Faivor sold the Boogie Board through ads in surf magazines, mail order, cash in advance. The money from the first orders allowed them to buy the materials to make the boards. They continued to produce them in Morey’s garage until, with sales resuming, they could afford a store on Oak Street in Carlsbad.
By Gordon Smith, August 24, 1978 Read full article
Rusty with two surfing contest winners, 1994. “What ruined the surfing industry? It was neon.”
Rusty Preisendorfer has been well known in the surfing industry for 20 years, and for 10 years he has been one of its dominant figures. Not because he’s such a great surfer, but because he designs and builds the wave tools that have allowed the best surfers in the world to push the sport to almost absurd levels of today.
By Steve Sorensen, November 24, 1994 Read the full article
Skip Frye got really good at the best possible time for a surfer to get attention in San Diego.
Skip the fries
Frye is back at Gordon & Smith after a four-year voluntary layoff – “my desert years”, he calls them – during which his marriage dissolved and he retired, at the inverse of the hermit crab, from a larger shell into a smaller one, and into a smaller one. He gave up his job, his place, his church, his car, until he lived in a shed in Pacific Beach and rode his bike.
By Joe Applegate, April 14, 1983 Read the full article